Let’s be honest: Dallas palates may be sophisticated, but more business deals are probably closed over a cheese enchilada platter or double hamburger than chateaubriand for two. Not that there’s anything wrong with that. We may enjoy the latest culinary trend and exotic protein de jour, but our hearts and taste buds always come back to the simpler pleasures: comfort food.
Lately, fried chicken has taken the spotlight, with area chefs elevating the common bird to new gastronomic heights. Next up: the lowly hot dog. Gourmet franks are a national trend, and celebrated Dallas restaurateurs such as Phil Romano and Alberto Lombardi have new dog houses on the horizon. But Richard and Tiffanee Ellman (Oak) and John Paul Valverde (the recently shuttered Campo Modern Country Bistro) have beat them to the dogfight with their new Bowery in Uptown.
Housed in a quaint cottage along trendy McKinney Avenue, Bowery exudes a dark, masculine vibe. It’s heritage cool, clad in dark wood and photos of New York circa 1920s. The restaurant is named after the New York City’s Bowery District, where German immigrants sold sausage in push carts back in the 1860s. Even the wax paper that surrounds Bowery’s hot dogs resembles vintage newsprint.